UTEE vs. Crackle Accents

How about a warm welcome to Kandi Phillips!

Kandi is married to an amazing guy named Jake, who fully supports her craft addiction, thankfully! She has two wonderful kids, Gwynie (10) and Brady (7) who are the funniest and cutest kids you'll ever meet (she may be just a bit biased). Kandi loves reading, sleeping in on the weekends, White Chocolate Mochas from Starbucks, laughing until her cheeks hurt, and playing Rock Band with the coolest friends a girl could have. When she's not doing all those fun things, Kandi works full time for a nationally-based company in Accounts Payable. You can find Kandi's work at her blog www.kraftykandikrafts.blogspot.com.

Reported by Kandi Phillips

Repeated layers of Ranger’s Ultra Thick Embossing Enamel (UTEE) can give your stamped images an antique finish, but is there a quicker way to get that aged to perfection look? Crackle Accents, also by Ranger, is designed to be a one step crackle medium, but I wanted to know how it stacked up next to UTEE. I compared the two in similar trials to find out which product worked best in different circumstances.

First, I tried both Crackle Accents and UTEE on chipboard letters. The Crackle Accents worked perfectly, while the UTEE left much to be desired. The Crackle Accents has a fine point, which is wonderful for precise application, but came out extremely slow, and had to be consistently squeezed to get it to come out. Covering a medium sized chipboard letter took several minutes and caused lots of hand cramping. The end result was well worth the work though, as it created a beautiful crackle after the Crackle Accents dried. Drying time is 1-4 hours based on thickness, and this chipboard letter K took 1 hour and 5 minutes to dry.

Using UTEE, on the other hand, was a quick process, but did not come out with the desired results. The UTEE did make a glossy finish, but when trying to bend the chipboard even slightly to create a crack, the chipboard peeled apart.

Wondering what Crackle Accents would look like on a button, I tried three different buttons of varying textures. Drying time was about an hour and a half, and turned out just as gorgeous as the chipboard letter. Since I knew I wouldn’t be able to bend a button, I didn’t try this test with the UTEE.

So, for hard items like buttons and chipboard, the Crackle Accents wins hands down. Aside from the possible hand cramping and drying time, Crackle Accents is the perfect medium for a cracked finish on 3-D items. Here is a card created with the finished chipboard letter and one of the buttons.

Next, I did the traditional Cracked Glass technique with the UTEE on a stamped image. By applying three alternating layers of Versamark and UTEE, and heat embossing each layer, you end up with a thick glossy finish. After allowing your piece to cool, simply bend your cardstock to “crack” the finish. This creates an antique look in a matter of minutes, which is sure to wow your recipient!
However, the process can be messy when alternating between Versamark and UTEE. Also, if you don’t shake off enough of the excess UTEE, it can spray everywhere when the heat gun is aimed toward it.

When using the Crackle Accents for the Cracked Glass technique I was quite disappointed. While the fine point tip was great for chipboard, it was a major setback when covering a large image. I ended up cutting off the tip to allow more product to pass through as it was proving difficult to cover a small square of cardstock. Drying time for a small stamped image was just over three hours. Crackle Accents also caused the edges of the cardstock to invert, as well as smearing the stamped image. I tried a watercolored image and a basic stamped image, and both showed signs of smearing after the Crackle Accents dried.

If you’re a stamper and want to create an aged image for your cards or scrapbook pages, you’ll want to stick with UTEE. The fast turnaround time, combined with the fact that your images show through perfectly, makes it the winner. Here is a card for a sweet friend, and you can bet she will be wowed with the cracked glass look!


UTEE Pros:

• Entire process takes about 10 minutes to achieve an antique look
• Perfect for stamped images

UTEE Cons:

• Can be messy

Crackle Accents Pros:

• Can be used on hard surfaces like buttons or chipboard
• Does have a gorgeous crackle that is unique from the cracked glass look

Crackle Accents Cons:

• Drying time is one to four hours depending on thickness of product applied, so if you want to finish a project you need to plan ahead.
• Stamped images will smear and bleed
• Paper tends to curl
• Fine tip point, although useful, causes product to come out slowly and can make your hand cramp while trying to apply!

I know I’ll be keeping both on hand as I can see myriad projects that each can be used for. Do you have anything special in mind? We’d love to see your creations with UTEE or Crackle Accents!

Disclosure Statement


And don't forget about our Club CK Giveaway! Today's the last day!

Ranger Glossy and Crackle Accents

Reported by Taylor Usry

Today I'd like to share two fun products with you - Ranger's Glossy and Crackle Accents. They are super easy to use, widely available, and really dress up your projects. I bought mine from an online store, but I have seen them in major craft chain stores also.

What are they for, you ask? They have all sorts of uses. The Glossy Accents specifically says it can be used to

"...accent, brighten, magnify, dimensionalize, bond & protect embellishments and designs."

Crackle Accents states that it can be used to

"...accent spot areas or entire images... over die cuts, clip art, ephemera, stickers, & more."

For my test images with Glossy Accents, I printed two digital images on Prismatics White cardstock (I used an HP printer and ink). I colored both images with Copic markers. For my test projects with the Crackle Accents I stamped one image on Stampin' Up cardstock using Stazon ink; the other project is a chipboard gear, colored black with a Copic marker. Both the Crackle and Glossy Accents have a fine tip for precision application directly from the bottle. The Crackle Accents also notes in its directions that it can be painted on for subtle effects. I have not tried that technique.

Everything looks the same immediately after coating with either medium -- wet and glossy. I tried to capture the air bubbles present in this picture. They are fairly easily removed with a pin or needle. They can be popped or dragged to the edge where they will disappear. I did notice more bubbles using the Crackle Accents.

The drying time for both products is anywhere from one to four hours, depending on the surface area covered and the thickness of your coating. I tested all of my products about one hour after coating. The Glossy Accents images were still tacky to the touch; the Crackle Accents projects were crackling and hardened in some spots but still obviously wet and glossy in others. At two hours, all four of the projects I am showing you here were completely dry. I did have a fifth test and it still is not dry, almost 24 hours later. I stamped a sentiment using Stampin' Up's classic ink on a piece of Stampin' Up cardstock. I cut out the sentiment using a Nestabilities shape and coated the entire thing with Glossy Accents. Although it is still not dry, I can see that the ink has bled, making the sentiment completely unrecognizable.

You can see how much crackle there is on the piece of chipboard. I think this is a great accent piece for projects! I love the potential for creating vintage and other interesting looks with this product. It does not chip or flake off. Also, the cardstock piece remained very pliable. I thought it might harden due to the glaze and that would make it difficult to flatten it out (hopefully the picture illustrates that it did bow the cardstock a bit). However, since it remained pliable it can still be glued completely down, adhered with dimensionals, or used in any way desired.

On this sample with Glossy Accents, I only covered the window of the rocket. I tried to pop the air bubbles as well as drag them to the edge but was unable to get them all. When the piece was dry, I noticed that the image seemed slightly blurred - not bad, but definitely a difference from before coating (see previous picture above).

The larger sample I covered with Glossy Accents turned out just fine, with no bleeding of ink or markers. The fine tip was excellent for covering just the areas I wanted (their clothing). On the girl with the reddish shirt, her hair extends below her shoulders so I needed coverage around that strand -- it worked great. I've used the Glossy Accents more than a few times in similar ways to this one - eyeglasses in particular. The fine tip makes it very easy to do! Another thing I frequently use my Glossy Accents for is as an adhesive. It's perfect for opaque dew drops and Primas because it dries clear. And when Glossy Accents is used as an adhesive, the drying time is next to nothing - one small drop of the product, top with the dew drop, and done. Both of these products really are no-mess products, which is wonderful.

Both of these products are stored best upright. Otherwise the tips will get clogged with the mixtures. If that happens, it is easily fixed by sticking a pin or needle down in the tip. It is recommended to rinse the tip(s) with warm water after each use to prevent clogging as well (but I've never done that).

Overall, I love these products and cannot recommend them enough. You should try them!! You'll find Tips and techniques from Ranger here. And here is a great video by Crop Suey using the Glossy Accents and Tim Holtz accents...yet another great application for this product!

Pros:

• easy to use
• covers a wide variety of surfaces
• creates interesting finished projects
• has multiple uses
• good price
  

Cons:

• air bubbles appear easily
• drying time -- you have to plan ahead when making a project with these
• some inks fade, bleed, or do not turn out well when paired with these products

Do you already own these products? Like them, love them, or not? I'd love to hear your thoughts!

Disclosure


And don't forget about our Club CK Giveaway!

Tim Holtz Distress Embossing Powder

Reported by Heather Strenzwilk

Tim Holtz Distress Embossing powders are part of the exclusive line by Ranger. Like the rest of the Distress line, these embossing powders are designed to provide a worn or weathered look. There are currently 24 colors of embossing powder available, which correspond to Distress Ink colors.

After reading and hearing lots of negative feedback about this product, I was a bit apprehensive about trying it. The two main complaints I heard about the product were:

• It is difficult to tell when the powder has been heated sufficiently because it doesn't melt like ordinary embossing powder.
  

• Too much of the powder (release crystals) rubs off the project. The Distress Embossing Powder has an the end result which is dull and pitted, unlike traditional embossing which is smooth and glossy.
  

But since it was on clearance for 97 cents a jar at a chain craft store, I decided to take a chance!

Rather than experiment immediately, I watched Tim Holtz himself demo the product on a You Tube video. The first thing I learned was that there is a Distress Clear Embossing Ink available and that you can use regular Distress Ink for embossing. According to the Ranger website Distress Ink is formulated for maximum release of the crystals in the Distress Embossing Powder. Since I already own several Distress Ink Pads, I used that ink for all of my samples except the flower where I used Colorbox Pigment Ink.

Tim suggests using a non-stick craft sheet for embossing to help prevent the melted embossing powder from sticking and to protect the work surface from the heat tool. You will also need embossing ink (or Distress Ink), stamps and a heat tool. I used a sheet of waxed paper under my tags when I poured the embossing powder, so I could pour the excess back into the bottle.

The embossing process is simple:

1. Shake the bottle of Distress Embossing Powder to evenly distribute the release crystals.
2. Stamp an image or apply embossing ink (or Distress Ink) to the project.
   
3. Sprinkle powder over inked area.
   
4. Tilt or move the project so that all of the ink is covered with powder.
   
5. Carefully tap the project to remove excess powder.
   
6. Pour the excess powder into the bottle or a container.
   

You don't want the powder "loose" when you turn on your heat tool or it will blow all over. Use a heat tool to carefully melt the powder. The color and texture change is very subtle- so watch carefully. Tim says on his video that you can't overheat the powder.

After melting allow the project to cool COMPLETELY. After it has cooled completely, lightly touch a small area to make sure the powder has adhered to the project. If the powder comes off, reheat and allow to cool again. Then rub your finger gently over the melted powder to remove the release crystals. The result will be a slightly-rough textured project, with a dull pitted surface. Note- do not try to save or reuse the release crystals you just rubbed off because it will alter the ratio of materials in the embossing powder (too much will rub off your project in the future.)

I didn't really have a learning curve on this, I watched very carefully as I heated the powder until I noticed very subtle changes in color and texture. The first time I tried to remove the release crystals nothing really happened because I had the tag in my hand. As soon as I put it on the table and rubbed with my finger, the crystals released. The embossing is rough, Tim compared it to the texture of sandpaper, and I have to agree with him. I found my tags (and table) to have a gritty residue everywhere I used the powder.

To complete my tags I applied ink or other mediums (watercolor crayon) to add additional color and depth to the piece. I applied Distress Ink to one of my tags with a Ranger Inkssentials Blending Tool and it did not disturb the embossed area, but a few residue crystals rubbed off into the foam on the tool. I rinsed out of the foam with water, and they were gone.

The hardest part for me of using the Distress Embossing Powders was remembering that you can't overcook it. In traditional embossing, you heat the powder just until it melts. With the Distress Embossing Powder, you need to heat the powder longer and you need to let it cool COMPLETELY before attempting to rub off the release crystals.

Pros:

• Colors coordinate to match Distress Inks
• Clear cap shows color of the powder, which makes storage easier
  

Cons:

• Hard to tell when the powder has been heated sufficiently
• Removing the release crystals after heating can be messy/ leave a gritty residue

I own many Ranger products, and I have always been pleased by their consistent quality. I love that the Distress Embossing Powder matches Distress Inks and can be used with them. Like most embossing powders, using the product can be messy and leave gritty residue behind. Because of the nature of the release crystals, that residue is much more likely to happen with the Distress Embossing Powder. Although I don't see myself using the product often, the product performed as promised, and I rate it a 9/10.

What are your thoughts on Ranger's Distress Embossing Powder? Leave us a comment and let us know!

Disclosure statement

And don't forget about our Club CK Giveaway!

Beacon's Liquid Glues

Please welcome another new addition to the team: Peggy Marsh!


Meet Peggy Marsh, a Kansas resident and owner of the blog “The Wired Angel”. Her interests in crafts started when she was a child, and she’s been dabbling in various forms of arts and crafts (decoupage, miniatures, needle arts, water coloring, paper projects, beading, etc.) ever since. Raised on the theory ‘idle hands’, she doesn’t sit still very long and always has some project in the works. What she really enjoys is teaching others what she has learned along the way.

Peggy is married, has two grown sons, and is a proud Army mom. Oh, and she’s is owned by three very active and yappy miniature Schnauzers.

Reported by Peggy Marsh

A while back, a card-making friend introduced me to Zip Dry Paper Glue manufactured by Beacon Adhesives. Until that time, I only used mono tape dispenser adhesives and found that once I placed my paper on my project, I couldn't reposition it for perfect alignment. Needless to say, I immediately fell in love with Zip Dry because it was forgiving, and allowed me to move the paper around 'til it was in the perfect spot. I was also able to use it for adhering ribbons, buttons and other embellishments. Since I was creating a lot of cards, I was using Zip at lightning speed. Zip sells for $6.50 - 7.50 for a 2.0 fluid ounce bottle at my local stamp stores. Yikes!



While searching for alternate shops to purchase Zip at a better price, I came across Beacon's 3-in-1 glue... hmmm, interesting... same manufacturer, same crystal clear appearance and at a fraction of the cost. In this economy that meant a lot! So off I went to give it a try.

My biggest concerns: having the ability to reposition my paper for a few seconds before the liquid dried, and ensuring embellishments would stay in place. It was perfect! It performed just like Zip Dry, allowing me the needed time to set my paper and embellishments in proper alignment.

Pros:

• Cost of 3-in-1 is a fraction of Zip Dry. Beacon's 3-in-1 is a 4 fluid ounce bottle (retails for $3.99) and sells for approximately 57% of the cost of a 2.0 fluid ounce $7.00 bottle of Zip Dry, and twice the amount of glue. Half the price... and twice the glue! That's a huge difference.

• It 'grabs' instantly, but is re-positionable for a few seconds.

• It works well even in damp areas. With good coverage, the paper will not lift off the project.

• 3-in-1 is readily available and found in most craft stores (Michael's, Joann's, Hobby Lobby). Zip dry is a little bit harder to find.

• Excess glue is quickly cleaned up using a rubber adhesive remover.

• 3-in-1 is recommended for: ceramics, fabric, glitter, leather, papers, stone and wood.

Cons:

• 3-in-1 glue will ooze out through the tip in warmer weather even when upright and with the cap in place... probably due to expansion. It just seems to bubble up a bit at the nozzle. I haven't had it spill over to my work surface, though.

• It's not archival (lignin-free), so it's not recommended for items such as scrapbooking. Don't use it on those precious family photos.

• When the bottle of 3-in-1 is half full it's much slower to come through the applicator tip. I use a second bottle to keep refilling.

Beacon has a terrific comparison chart which helps the user find the perfect glue for their projects. They have a glue for just about any craft project.

Have you tried the 3-in-1? How do you think it compares? Leave us a comment at let us know!

Disclosure Statement

Featured Website: Club Creating Keepsakes

There is a new online community for avid scrapbookers called Club Creating Keepsakes. This interactive community, unveiled March 1st, is bursting with fresh ideas and creative inspiration. Currently, they are running contests and giveaways everyday for their inaugural month.

Club CK includes an idea gallery, forums, and blogs for its social members. Anyone can join this great community as a social member, for free, and participate in their member areas. But they also offer a Charter Membership that includes over $950 in membership benefits. With a low annual fee and included discount cards, this membership will pay for itself!

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• official Club CK membership card
  

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• free admission to the Vendor Fair Shopping
  
• one FREE class

• Deals and discounts from the Club CK sponsors

• Access to the Font and Clip Art Library, including:
• over 100 free fonts
• 3 volumes of Creative Clips

• A full year of the quarterly magazine, Scrapbooking Tips and Tricks, a $23.96 value

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• Simple Scrapbooks
  
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So, you will have plenty of inspiration and ideas right at your fingertips!

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GIVEAWAY!
Club CK is giving away a FREE one-year Charter Membership to one of our lucky readers. Click on the link to check out their website, and then come back and leave a comment below with your thoughts on this brand-new community. We will randomly pick a winner on Wednesday, March 31, 2010. One comment per person, please.

Disclosure Statement